Garage floor cracked, sinking or pooling water? We pack a firm base and pour a new slab built to carry your car.
Garage floor concrete is the poured slab your car, tools and storage sit on. In Riverview we replace a cracked, sinking or chipped one by digging out, packing a firm base and pouring a new slab that drains toward the door.
Most calls start with something you can see, like a crack that keeps widening, a corner that's dropped, chipping where the tires sit or water pooling by the back wall. Those problems usually trace back to what's underneath. So before we talk about the new pour, we look at the subgrade, the soil the slab sits on.
The price moves with the size of the garage, whether an old slab has to be broken out and hauled off, how much base work the ground needs and whether the slab gets steel in it. The schedule turns on the weather, the permit and the curing wait after the pour. Your written estimate spells out what's included for your floor.
Most of what makes a garage floor last is buried or settled before anyone sees the finished surface. These are the three things we look at first.
The base is the layer of fill under the slab, and it's where garage floors usually fail. If it's only raked level, the dirt keeps settling and the concrete settles with it. So we dig out soft or loose material and pack the base firm before any forms go up.
A garage floor should fall gently toward the door, so water off a wet car or a hose runs out instead of pooling against the back wall. We check where water goes on the driveway side too, because a slab that tips toward the house sends it right back in.
Garage slabs sit on the thicker end of what home floors use, because they carry a parked car's weight day after day. I'll ask what yours will hold, like a truck, a workbench, a freezer or heavy shelving, since that shapes how thick the slab is and whether it needs steel.
Here's how a garage floor job runs with us, from your first call to the day we pack up, so you know what's happening at each stage.
Call (813) 471-5890 or send the form and tell us what the floor is doing now, whether it's cracking, sinking or holding water. We get back to you to set a time to come see it.
I come out, measure the garage, look over the site and how a truck will reach it, and ask what the floor needs to carry. Then you get a written estimate that shows what's included.
Once you say go, we sort out the permit side for your address and break out the old slab if there is one. Then we build and pack the base, set the forms, pour and finish.
Before we pack up, we walk you through curing, the wait while the concrete gains strength. That way you know when to walk on the floor, when to park on it and what to keep off it.
I'll tell you plainly up front that a garage slab can crack a little, even when the work is done right. What we can control is where it cracks. We cut control joints, straight grooves sawn into the slab soon after the pour. They give the concrete a weak line to crack along, so it doesn't pick its own spot across the middle of your floor.
If the budget gets tight, the base is the last place I'd cut. It's buried on day one and nobody admires it, but it's what keeps the slab from settling. A fancy surface on a weak base just cracks in a nicer color. If you want color or pattern later, our decorative concrete work can go on a floor that's built right underneath.
Out at the door, where the slab meets the driveway, the apron usually gets a broom finish. That's light grooves dragged into the surface so tires and shoes grip when it's wet. If your garage sits where the yard drops away and the ground beside the slab needs holding back, that's a job for our concrete retaining walls.
Rebar is steel bar set inside the slab. It holds the pieces together if the slab cracks and helps it carry weight. A reinforced slab costs more per square foot than a plain one, and I'll tell you which yours needs once I know what it'll carry.
If you're planning a coating, tell us early so we can plan for moisture coming up under the slab. Industry guidance says a vapor barrier, a plastic sheet laid right under the concrete, gives a coated floor the most protection.
Send the form and we'll get back to you within one business day to set a time to see the garage. The estimate is free, done at your property and written out so you can see what's included. There's no obligation to go ahead.
(813) 471-5890If your address is in unincorporated Hillsborough County, the county's Development Services handles permits and inspections. Its rule is that new structures and other construction need the right building permit. We check whether your address falls under the county or a city. We treat a new garage floor as work that likely needs a permit, and we pull it when it does. The county's Map Viewer shows which rules apply to your parcel.
The ground here matters for cracks too. Around Hillsborough County, clay layers that can shrink as they dry, buried organic material and poorly packed soil can all cause sinking, settling and cracks. That's why the packed base matters so much here, and why I'd rather find a soft spot before the pour than after it.
We're based in Riverview and work across Hillsborough County and the cities around it, including Brandon and Apollo Beach. Most garage floors we're called to are on single-family homes. Often the old slab has settled at one corner or cracked straight across where no joint was ever cut.
I come out myself to look over the job and measure, and our own crew does the work with me running it. I learned concrete as a helper on a small crew, hauling, setting forms and pulling screed long before I ran a job. I started this business in Riverview in 2013.
We're fully licensed and insured. If I don't know something yet, like what's under your old slab, I'll say so instead of guessing. I'd rather check a line one more time than explain a mistake later. Your satisfaction, guaranteed. When you're ready, call (813) 471-5890 or send us the form, and I'll set a time to come look at your garage.
If you want color or a pattern on the floor, or on the patio and walks outside the garage, decorative work adds it to a sound slab.
When your garage or driveway sits on a slope, a retaining wall holds back the soil beside it so the ground stays put around the slab.
We're based in Riverview and pour garage floors across Hillsborough County and the cities around it, including the ones listed here and others nearby. If you don't see yours, call and ask.
A new concrete slab in the Tampa area usually costs about $5 to $11 per square foot. That figure covers the slab itself, not staining or stamping. Where yours lands depends on the size, the tear-out, the base work and whether the slab is reinforced. Your written estimate shows exactly what's included.
You can usually walk on a new slab within 48 hours. To be safe, plan on about a week before you park on it or roll heavy things in. Concrete takes 28 to 30 days to fully cure, so we'll tell you when the floor is ready for full use.
It may crack some. Fully preventing cracks in a concrete slab isn't realistic, even with good design and building, and you should expect some cracking in any concrete floor. What we work on is where the cracks go and keeping the ground under the slab firm, with the joints and packed base described above.
In Hillsborough County, construction work the state regulates needs a contractor licensed through the state's licensing department, DBPR, or through the county. The county also requires a valid contractor license for any work that needs a county permit. On the permit itself, we check your address and pull it when the job needs one.
Industry guidance says crews should place and finish concrete outside the hottest part of the day when they can. Concrete finished in midday heat can end up with a weak, dusty top. It's a fair question to ask any crew, and we'll tell you our planned pour time when we set the date.
Clear the garage out completely, including cars, shelves and everything on the floor, because we need the whole space open to break out the old slab, pack the base and pour. Plan where you'll park during the curing wait, and keep a path open for the truck to reach the door.
Call (813) 471-5890 or send the form with the garage size and any coating plans ready, so I come out knowing what we're planning for.
